Photography Tutorial: Get Sharp Focus From Front to Back

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50 Responses to Photography Tutorial: Get Sharp Focus From Front to Back

  1. Professional Photography Tips says:

    +Hiker SanDiego, cheers. The location here is the 20 Lakes Basin just east
    of Yosemite. Access via Saddlebag Lake.

  2. Professional Photography Tips says:

    Hey +Key Wizard, generally speaking you should focus about a third of the
    way into the frame. But using the method outlined in the video will make
    sure you get everything in focus every time. Have fun!

  3. Lybe Rum says:

    Great video! I want to get that Tokina 11-16 also and I would like you to
    describe it in one word for me :). Also, if you know, what do you think
    about Tokina 12-28mm? Thanks and good luck!

  4. Uillihans Dias says:

    Great tutorial! That’s exactly what I do when shooting landscape. You’re
    absolutely right about closing down the aperture, lens diffraction can
    really soften the image. Here’s one of my shots using the same technique
    and thanks for sharing! http://flic.kr/p/qZZK7D

  5. Aqull says:

    +Professional Photography Tips Really good video, might wanna try
    enhancing the audio quality tho

  6. Alex Park says:

    wow very useful information! thanks a lot!

  7. merasanam says:

    Photography tutorial: how to overexpose the entire video….

  8. TheTacticalDefender says:

    LMAO… Note to self: Don’t watch videos from Joshua while drinking coffee
    or any other liquid sitting at the PC. Keep em coming. Be well.

  9. Michael Lombardi says:

    I’m confused as to how you focus 1/3 of the way if there’s nothing there to
    focus on? I usually select the center point for focus, point wherever I
    want the focus, half-push the shutter, and re-align to what I’m shooting.
    If everything in these sweeping landscapes is foreground or background, how
    to I hit the 1/3 mark?

  10. Phillydog1958 says:

    I like your approach. Great job! 

  11. Will Guthrie says:

    Hey man, interesting content and video and some great tips and techniques
    as well: looking forward to trying them out this weekend so cheers for
    taking the time to create and post. The scenery looks stunning by the way,
    very different to here in the UK for sure. I’m assuming it’s in the States
    somewhere but I’d be interested to know which part?

  12. AlJeffersonA1 says:

    Great tutorial and fantastic tips, thanks so much!!

  13. Hiker SanDiego says:

    Good tips, especially the one-third focus point and checking foreground and
    background adjusting the aperture for sharpness.
    My question is, where was the location you were filming. I suspect it is
    located in the CA Sierras. For some reason it reminds of Second Recess in
    the Mono Creek drainage, but the peak I see only viewfinder of your camera
    doesn’t seem to fit that guess. 

  14. Antenox says:

    For focus stacking, what about focus breathing?

  15. walleyesam says:

    Hi Josh. I was just wondering. I’m assuming that you are a Californian.
    What part of California? I’m a displaced Tulare, Californian now living in
    Washington state. Great tutes !

  16. Aaron Comerford says:

    Wait, so just test your focus/aperture until you get it in focus?? what a
    great use of 5 minutes.

    But I did learn that f/8 was the average lens’s best DOF fstop 

  17. Donald Goldney says:

    excellent work

  18. canabiz101 says:

    Sub !

  19. david mc mahon says:

    5th option,Get you’r SLR and fling it as far as you can into that bloody
    river-only kidding good vid.

  20. Gilbert Davis says:

    That was very excellent. Thanks.

  21. Key Wizard says:

    Hi,i’m a beginner in photography,my question is if i’m shooting a landscape
    at say F11 or up and i want the foreground and background to be in
    focus,where would i put the focus point,in the foreground or in the
    background?thanks

  22. EMIP TV says:

    Excellent tips and great video, thanks

  23. Product Feedback says:

    What about at night when you shoot low Aperture F1.8 etc? Is stacking the
    only way? Sucks for moving things. 

  24. Alexis Coxon says:

    Thanks! This has been a struggle for me, especially as hyperfocusing seems
    nearly impossible when modern lenses are so poorly marked! Can’t wait to
    try it out.

  25. Gaston Seijas says:

    Great Stuff!! You should be doing some flickr photos critique! I would be
    really interested in you taking a look at my pictures! You seem to be a
    great photographer and teacher. YOU HAVE A NEW SUBSCRIBER!

    By the way, heres my flickr page, just in case lol
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/98662158@N03/sets/72157648139025582/

  26. PhotographersAcademy says:

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  27. phantomdb1980 says:

    Great info, thank you for sharing.

  28. Chandra Jordan says:

    very helpful guys thanks great job

  29. bartjooh says:

    I found it very nice to see how much more dynamic the bride looked when she
    leaned a bit on the seat, and looked out. The difference between ‘yes,
    nice’ and ‘wow! great’ I’d like use studio-flashers… But first, get
    saving money for the 70-200 f2.8 Thanks for the upload!

  30. vidular says:

    Interesting, you give some great advice and really show that it is both and
    art and a science to do quality photography.

  31. photowa says:

    some nice tips there. Cheers. Rich from Australia

  32. PhotographersAcademy says:

    the accent is Australian. Thanks for your comment

  33. Knuffelbeertje_123_years says:

    I like it when the guy talks about a “flesh tube” at 02:00 :)

  34. arindam244 says:

    thanks very much for sharing this…the light techniques are well
    illustrated. i hope u keep up the good job cheers

  35. tasulinha2 says:

    THANK YOU!

  36. clidiere says:

    I love the accent! Kiwi?

  37. stopbeingnice says:

    thank you !!! I wondered how to focus at night before firing the lights

  38. iuli04 says:

    great vid.Thank u guys.

  39. TheOn3LeftBehind says:

    Awesome! Thanks for this, it helps me. I’ve always been into photography
    but I wanted some help on ideas and this gave me some! :D

  40. vannabie says:

    A 50mm is called a normal lens because the focal length is approximately
    the diagonal of the image format. That’s all. Most human eyes are about
    16mm in focal length and the pupil’s iris can manage effective apertures of
    from about f/2 to f/11.

  41. CollegeEducated123 says:

    WONDERFUL TIPS!!!!!! How about posting a Video about using Natural Light
    (outside)

  42. NoizePhotography says:

    Great video, thank you!

  43. NoYouCant HaveMyName says:

    @vannabie it’s also called a ‘normal’ lens because it has virtually no
    perspective distortion (like human eyes) and objects appear roughly the
    same size, relative to each other, as they do on the human eyes. It’s just
    a shame that on a crop sensor the FOV of a 50MM is quite restricting.

  44. mpgarate says:

    6:19

  45. jocko500 says:

    real cool . learn some stuff here

  46. StudioOneMarketing says:

    it’s good for the sharing whatever kinds of knowledge. keep on the good job!

  47. fiercemax says:

    im not sure, but i think its the 1d

  48. hiii14 says:

    omg this video is so kool ritenow im in houz in vacations nothing to do n i
    was plannin to buy a professional kamera n take pics… it will b pretty
    kool… tanx 4 dee vid….

  49. igor tkachev says:

    Wow thanks a lot you gave me good tips for photography! THANK YOU!

  50. tony_woods says:

    This is a really helpful video. Thanks for posting!

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